The Lenin Peak

The Lenin Peak is considered one of the best places to visit to acquire the necessary experience and preparation to face the ascent of an eight-thousanders.

In principle it is a fairly affordable mountain, and -in theory- without excessive objective risks. I say in theory because it holds the dubious honor of having hosted the greatest tragedy ever to have occurred on a mountain: in 1990 the area suffered an earthquake of 4 degrees on the Ritcher scale that caused the collapse of a large serac that reached camp 2, causing the death of 43 people.

Although it probably has less objective risk situations than other sietemiles, like any mountain, and more of this height, it is not exempt from them: camp 2 is prone to avalanches, and between camp 1 and 2 there are covered crevasses.

On the way up there are usually fixed ropes for belaying in the crevasse areas, but not on pitch 2, which is crowded with them. Many are hidden and treacherous. I gave myself a scare in this camp by sticking my leg in one. I even saw a climber go through the same ordeal at the door of his tent when he was trying to get inside.

This lack of great technical difficulties for a peak of its altitude, a short and very simple approach -by car “up to the door”-, as well as a very comfortable and well stocked base camp and camp 1, make it an excellent peak for a high altitude baptism…and a very, very busy place.

Of course, you also have to be careful with altitude sickness (cerebral or pulmonary edema, especially if you have no previous experience at high altitude), with low temperatures, and with the wind that usually whips the long ridge on summit day. Every season there are cases of edema and frostbite.

Lenin Peak is located in the Pamir Range, between the countries of Tajikistan and Kyrgyzstan. Its summit reaches 7,134m altitude, 3rd highest in the Snow Leopard after Communism and Pobeda.

Access to the mountain is through Kyrgyzstan. Normally one flies from Biskeh, capital of the country, to the city of Osh, and from there by car to the base camp itself, at 3,600m altitude.

To reach the summit, 3 altitude camps are set up: camp 1, or advanced base, at 4,400m (actually, it is the real base camp; once reached, except for acclimatization problems, you do not descend to the base), camp 2 at 5,300m, and camp 3 at 6,100m.

In Afa travel we take you in several modalities. Basic pack or complete pack, depending on the degree of comfort or services. Ask us!

Our special thanks to Javier Camacho, author of the great photos.