Road of Bones: The Ultimate Adventure Through One of Russia’s Most Dangerous Roads

The Road of Bones: The Ultimate Challenge for Adventure Riders

The infamous Road of Bones in eastern Russia is the ultimate test of man and machine for any adventure rider. 

The Edge of the World

The Road of Bones is located in the Kolyma region of Russia, an area known for its harsh climate and many gulags (labor camps). It’s on the outskirts of the world, with most people knowing almost nothing about it. However, among the adventure biking community, the region is famous for its extremely dangerous and challenging roads. The Road of Bones stretches 1,250 miles from Yakutsk to Magadan and has become a bucket list journey for motorcyclists thirsty for adventure.

The road, also known as the Kolyma Highway, was built by the government of the USSR between the 1930s and 1950s, almost entirely without machines. Instead, the forced labor of prisoners was used, most of whom were sent to this desolate place as enemies of the state. Conditions were incredibly harsh in this permafrost area, where temperatures can plummet to a perilously cold -50C to -60C. People lived in barracks with little heating, poor food, hard labor, little medicine, and a ruthless attitude from the guards. Not surprisingly, many died.

As construction took place on frozen ground, it was very difficult and time-consuming to dig graves for the prisoners. Instead, bodies were buried right under the road. This is how the name “Road of Bones” originated.

The region was closed to tourists until the collapse of the Soviet Union in the 1990s. When the first motorcycle travelers arrived in Kolyma, they encountered a total lack of infrastructure, but experienced breathtaking views of nature at its wildest. The road provided excellent conditions for extreme off-road riding with only the rider, their bike, and nature to explore.

In 2004, Ewan McGregor and Charley Boorman famously came here during the filming of the Long Way Round television series. The show was a huge success worldwide, and the footage of the pair riding the Road of Bones became iconic. Later, Mick McDonald, an Australian rider, came here with friends and made another film. These rides have helped make the Road of Bones an iconic route for all adventure riders.

Where to Begin

Let’s start with the basics. The Road of Bones is a gravel road that stretches from Yakutsk to Magadan in the far eastern region of Russia. Yakutsk is the obvious place to start this ride, but it’s a small provincial city with few flights arriving, no cargo planes, and no train connection, so you can’t easily ship your bike there.

You also can’t rent a bike from any local companies. There are no motorcycle shops, no tire shops, nothing. Vladivostok is the nearest big city where you can buy anything motorcycle-related. Most people start their ride from here (Vladivostok-Magadan is 3,100 miles) or from Moscow (Moscow-Magadan is 6,800 miles).

Road Conditions

There are several reasons why the Road of Bones is so difficult. First of all, it’s mostly made up of small, sharp rocks from nearby mines. These sharp rocks easily pierce motorcycle tires, meaning you’ll spend a lot of time repairing punctures. This is the first problem you’ll encounter.

Next comes the dust. It rises like a cloud for hundreds of meters behind any vehicle, making it hard to see anything in front of you. It also penetrates everywhere, including inside your helmet and your riding gear. Your motorcycle’s air filter will be full of dust after a few hundred miles, so make sure you have at least one replacement.

There are also several muddy sections which are almost impassable in rainy weather, and many sand sections that appear suddenly around blind corners. You’ll also find plenty of large rocks on the road.

Perhaps the most difficult section is the 150-mile muddy stretch after Yakutsk. If it has been raining, the road will be as slippery as butter. The best advice is to wait an extra day or two in Yakutsk for the road to dry out if you have time. If you can’t wait, it will take you 15 hours to complete this stretch, and you will need to lift your bike hundreds of times.

About 10 years ago, the Russian government decided to upgrade and reconstruct the Road of Bones. This work is still ongoing but is far from finished, and it will take many years to make it “good.”

Local Amenities

When you enter the Road of Bones, you leave civilization behind. Forget about good coffee, restaurants, or petrol stations with food stores, ATMs, and toilets inside. There will be no mobile coverage or internet signal. If you buy a local Russian SIM card, you may get mobile coverage as you pass small towns and villages every couple of hundred miles or so.

Guesthouses and local hotels are rated one star, so you may prefer to camp in the forest. Local hotels aren’t listed on Booking.com or any other website until you reach Yakutsk or Magadan.

There are no big fuel brands in this area, and fuel quality is often low. Many small stations dilute fuel with different additives to increase quality, but that doesn’t always work. There are also no garages or motorcycle shops. If something happens with your bike, you must be able to fix it with what you have.

It’s best to have £500 to £700 changed into local rubles, as nobody accepts credit cards and there are no ATMs.

The Weather

The weather here is forever changing and unpredictable. Summer lasts for two months, from the end of June to mid-August. Temperatures during the day can reach 15C to 20C, and at night, they usually drop to 5C to 7C. However, temperatures are often changeable, and don’t be surprised to find that it can snow on any day.

Another difficulty you may experience due to the weather is high waters in swollen rivers after periods of heavy rain. Because the earth is frozen, rain can’t soak into the ground, causing the water levels in rivers and streams to rise quickly. Within a few hours, a small stream can become a fast-flowing river. There’s no need to explain what could happen if you drop your bike in one of these!

Safety on the Road

There are several police stations in small towns along the route, but they are so far apart that locals often drive cars without registration plates, driving licenses, and sometimes even while drunk.

Although people in Russia are known to be friendly and helpful, the Kolyma region is an exception. Many locals are cocky and can be aggressive. They may ask to sit on your bike, for a ride, or to drink with them. It’s strongly recommended to stay inside during the evening at your hotel or camp outside of town.

Another important thing to be aware of are the bears. The forests are full of wild animals, including bears, so make sure you have anti-bear protection, such as a flare gun, and know how to behave if you encounter one. There are also many mosquitoes, so make sure to bring anti-mosquito nets and repellents with you.

Some people like to ride solo, and we respect your choice, but we strongly recommend taking a friend with you on the Road of Bones. It’s not safe to ride such a challenging route alone.

Always stay focused. Hard gravel roads can quickly turn into sandy patches with large rocks in the middle. If you break your wheel, you won’t be able to get it repaired or buy another one.

Reasons to Ride

As you can see, there are many reasons not to ride the Road of Bones, but the danger and sense of adventure are what attract so many bikers to take on the challenge. It is a dream route for many and achievable if you are prepared.

Riding the Kolyma Highway offers a chance to escape the stresses of daily life. Hide in the forest without internet, social media, or phone calls. If you ride with others, you will come to rely on each other and form deep bonds. Extraordinary people ride the Road of Bones, and you will forge lasting friendships with them.

It is a test of stamina, strength, and endurance for both you and your bike. Completing it will bring a sense of satisfaction akin to running an Iron Man. It is truly a life-changing experience that will make you see life differently. After many days in the forest, you’ll start to value simple things, like a regular cup of coffee.

How to Prepare

First and foremost, you need to be good at riding on gravel roads. Train before you go. You must be able to ride for six to ten hours each day off-road.

Before the ride, make sure to service your bike properly. Replace all parts that could potentially need changing, such as the chain, filters, oil seals, and oil. Take spare parts, like extra tubes, an air filter, and a chain. Also, bring a good pump and a variety of repair kits with different patches and glue.

It’s important to learn basic motorcycle maintenance, such as changing oil, fixing punctures, and replacing filters. There will be no internet to consult YouTube, and no motorcycle garages where you can ask for help.

What to Take

A small bike is better than a large one on such difficult and unpredictable terrain, and it will be easier to pick up when you drop it. Spoked wheels are better than alloy wheels because they are tougher and more durable.

Make sure you have good riding gear and warm clothes. Very importantly, bring an effective rain suit.

Ignore anyone who says you don’t need one. We have tested expensive “waterproof” textile suits on the Road of Bones, and they leak during heavy Siberian rain. Also, bring a good helmet, touring or enduro boots, warm gloves, and a wind stopper.

I recommend bringing a satellite phone, which will be helpful if you need urgent assistance. Also, bring a GPS tracker so your friends and family can keep track of your progress.

Should You Ride the Road of Bones?

There’s no denying that riding the Road of Bones is a tough ride. But it will also be one of the best experiences of your life. It’s not easy, but few roads in the world offer so many opportunities for adventure.

You will cross great Siberian rivers and pass through areas where few people live, all amid spectacular landscapes. It will certainly be a challenge and a bit risky, but in the end, what is life without adventure?

I hope you find this translation useful!